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 Missing Aussie hits home 

Missing Aussie hits home

8/10/2008 9:17:00 AM
“LOOKS like they’ve found that girl’s body,” I heard, and just slumped.

It turns out the corpse found in a cove at Dubrovnik, Croatia, is probably not missing Melbourne traveller Britt Lapthorne – it’s too decomposed. But whatever happens from here is a tragedy, and will be a bigger tragedy if we’re too scared to travel.

Maybe it hurts so much because I got to Dubrovnik the same day as Britt, stayed in a hostel a stone’s throw from hers, and that night went to the same nightclub she disappeared from. For all I know, we spoke to each other.

The Latino Club Fuego is a thumping little place, even on a Wednesday. My brother, high school mate and I drank, tipped, danced and laughed too much, and then it was 3.05am. Bad news, because that afternoon our hostel owner told us we would not be allowed in between 3 and 7. Britt’s hostel in Babin Kuk, just up the hill from Old Town, probably had a similar rule.

The manager Ivica Perkovic was grilled by local police, and told the national daily Jutarnji List that none of Britt’s travelling companions “cared that she did not show up the morning afterwards in the hostel”, and she was “too open a person and also promiscuous.”

Forget him.

Some youth hostels are run by people who hate young travellers. When we hauled our bags into reception that afternoon, the manager pocketed a king’s ransom (including a deposit we’d paid online), told us “you look like you would be sneaking in alcohol, so if you start shit you’ll be on the street”, gave us the key to a dungeon and acted like he’d pulled money from his own wallet so we could stay. We spent not one second more at that building than was absolutely necessary.

The night we stayed out past curfew, our Irish drinking companions told us not to be silly, bless us, we’d be staying at their flat in glittering Old Town, and not another word about it. According to a bouncer, Britt left Latino Club Fuego with five women and two men. Her roommates woke to find her bed empty, her Facebook status remains “off to Dubrovnik, Croatia!” and the silence has stretched to three weeks.

Britt might have made just one mistake. She could have taken a wrong street, got in the wrong cab, trusted the wrong smile. But that’s it with travelling. You have to trust someone.

At my keyboard in Forster, little things come back. The 30-something guy in a Man U shirt shadowing barely-teen Dubrovnik girls.

The dreadlocked man holding a metal bar, walking beside us in Amsterdam. That hand on my pocket in Prague – did he actually touch my wallet? I yelled and shoved him, and he melted into the dance floor.

Dubrovnik is an ancient city, with clinking bars and bakeries, cobblestone streets, and terracotta rooftops sprawling to the turquoise Adriatic.

If you follow roaring buses down the hill you find Old Town, a sea fortress guarded from Ottomans, Spaniards and Portuguese for centuries. Now it’s the flashiest place in the country, like The Rocks on steroids.

On our first foray, a group of local girls yelled out.

“Hey, come have a drink!”

They started giggling and went into a pub, and we thought they were kidding. Then one followed us round the corner.

“You coming, or what?”

In broken English, 19-year-old Jelena told us the other girls thought we could be “maniacs” but had been convinced otherwise, and we were invited to see more of Dubrovnik than the “tourist part”. She showed us her university dorm, a building 300 years older than European Australia, and took us to a park overlooking the sea.

It’s a magic spot, where you can sit on a bench and watch a few locals share a beer, and faintly hear scooters whizzing by.

A couple chatting in a convertible Volkswagen. And the whole dark paradise ringed by a million lights that pour from apartment buildings, the stars, and the flash of a cigarette lighter that belongs to a Croatian girl who’s telling you about her rock band, and her Dubrovnik.

From that park, you can just see the cove where divers found the body that probably isn’t Britt.

I hope we never surrender that park, but I really hope Jelena doesn’t.

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16/12/2008 | So we now have desperate parents attempting to bribe teachers to get their children into a selective high school. What a sad indictment of our education policies, the holy grail of which is parental choice.
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